Hultaj Brunch That Doesn’t Behave

Jeżyce does what Jeżyce does best: turns everyday life into a curated mix of coffee, noise, plants, good food, and someone’s laundry drying above your head — because nothing says “brunch district” like socks gently waving over your espresso.

And right in the middle of it all — tucked under residential balconies like a culinary secret someone forgot to gatekeep — sits Hultaj. A brunch spot with attitude, a name that literally translates to “rascal,” and a menu that clearly decided: we’re not here to behave. Honestly, it feels like the kind of place that would argue with you and still make you order seconds.

So we went in hungry. Slightly curious. A bit underprepared emotionally. And left… emotionally committed, mildly overfed, and already planning our return like it’s a relationship. They hit you first with a small in-house store — because apparently eating there isn’t enough, you can also take a bit of the chaos home with you.

Sweet Cheeks (52 PLN) — the clear main character

Let’s start with the dish that basically stole the show.

Butter-toasted brioche, slow-cooked beef cheek in red wine sauce, turnip pappardelle marinated in beetroot sourdough, sweet potato purée, crunchy capers, chives.

Yes, it reads like a kitchen flex. And yes, it eats like one too.

The beef cheek is deep, rich, slow-braised comfort with that “I’ve been cooking since yesterday and I am proud of it” energy. The red wine sauce ties everything together with proper depth — not sweet, not heavy, just confident.

The sweet potato purée brings softness, the capers give little salty explosions like tiny plot twists, and the beetroot-marinated pasta adds an earthy, slightly tangy backbone that keeps things interesting.

Overall flavour profile: deep umami, slightly sweet, earthy, layered, and dangerously easy to finish too quickly.

This was our top pick. No competition.

Kimchisalmon — chaos, but make it delicious

Now this one came in swinging.

Potato waffle, smoked salmon in kimchi mayo, whipped ricotta with beetroot, pickled lemon chutney, dill lettuce, amaranth popping.

First impression: this is either going to change our lives or start an argument.

And it did both.

The smoked salmon + kimchi mayo combo is genuinely great — smoky, spicy, slightly funky in a good way. The waffle holds everything together like it’s trying to behave in public.

But the whipped ricotta took over a bit. For us, it muted the kimchi punch that we came for in the first place. Still tasty, just slightly “volume down” on the main idea.

Flavour profile: smoky, creamy, tangy, slightly confused (but in a fun brunch way).

Still worth ordering — just know the ricotta is the main character that didn’t ask for permission.

Drinks — where Hultaj goes full mad scientist

Now let’s talk drinks, because this is where things get properly interesting.

Ginger Bug (20 PLN)
Fermented ginger skins, seasonal ginger bug base — basically Hultaj’s take on kombucha, but with more attitude and less “health store lecture.”

It’s sharp, fizzy, slightly funky, and feels like your immune system just got a personality upgrade.

Izokonik
Homemade isotonic drink made from pickled lemons.

And honestly? This should be more famous than it is.

Salty, citrusy, refreshing — like your body just got reset after a night out you don’t fully remember but survived anyway.

The garden — Jeżyce energy in physical form

And then there’s the garden.

If you want to understand Jeżyce, just sit there for five minutes.

Plants everywhere, people leaning over coffee cups, conversations drifting between tables, and directly above you — the quiet chaos of local life continuing in apartments that clearly didn’t ask for brunch tourism but got it anyway.

It’s not styled to perfection. It’s lived-in. And that’s exactly the point.

Final verdict

Hultaj isn’t trying to be polished. It’s not trying to be minimal. It’s not trying to behave.

It’s a Jeżyce brunch spot with identity — a little messy, very intentional, and confident enough to serve beef cheek on brioche and fermented ginger like that’s just a normal Tuesday.

Would we go back?

Yes.
Probably before this article even gets published.

Because even in Jeżyce, places like this are rarer than you think.